četvrtak, 23. listopada 2014.

Welcome to the wild, wild Fes

 

Once we got to the main train station, we already got to know quite a few people from Fes. And all of the people  that were occupying the compartment were managers of some-sort, a tannery, bars, the best restaurant. They were very kind and told us a lot about their lives and also didn't hesitate to ask about our lives. I usually don’t trust people at first, and they advised us not to trust anyone in Fes. Except for, I guess, all of the people in the compartment – the managers. But not a specific detail was given, just – DO NOT TRUST ANYONE. And they asked for our hotel address, and already made plans for us when to eat lunch, see the shops, etc.  Of course, they provided contacts of all sorts of “cheap” guides.


We continued suspiciously on. While  approaching towards the taxi stand (keeping in mind not to trust anyone) and asked how much to the Medina of Fes. The first one said 40 MAD (approximately 4 Euros), and we said ok (dragging a big suitcase doesn’t give you much arguing space). Luckily, we’ve found our riad in the busy streets of the Medina . The riad was close to the Blue door which was excellent for the sake of orientation (a reference point lately used a lot). Greeted in a customary Moroccan fashion, we drank the over sweeten tea with mint (which I grew very fond of, it is extra delicious), and were shown our room. By now, we already knew that one does not simply enter their booked room in Morocco, you are being shown all the other rooms, and said that the price is a little bit different (you can never get the exact price beforehand, I think it changes with the conversation), so we said no, thanks, and proceeded to our room.


The room was excellent, and the whole interior of riad was astonishing. Colorful Moroccan style accompanied with mosaics of tiles and a big spacious rooms.  African scents (sweet nutty spices mixture) made up for the fact there were no windows to the exterior world – Riads are usually closed to the outside world, but have a middle of the house open and windows towards inside, so you get a plenty of fresh air, not to worry. And the isolation of a riad guarantees a good night sleep. And after Casablanca’s crazy life, we needed it.


Just after settling, it was time for taking a walk through the colorful narrow streets of Fes Medina and seeing what the craftsmen have to offer.

The streets in Casablanca Medina were narrow, but big enough for a little car to pass through (or the taxi drivers would squeeze it through not caring about innocent pedestrians and not even honking.  In Fes, the streets were too narrow for that, and filled with people. The means of transportating the goods from one part of the market to another were mules and little ponies. “Belek, belek”, shouting all around. Later I found out in ment “attention, attention”. There is no right side of the street rule, everybody had their tempo and it took a couple of days for me to get used to it and not move for everything. People in Fes like to play a game of pretending not to see they are about to run into you, and eventually they move out of the way. The little craftsman shops are amazing, and if you want to buy something, get ready to bargain hard and ridiculous, it is the normal fashion here.

The terrace at the craftsman organisation it the jewish neighbourhood of Fes
After 12 hours of sleep(riad was an amazing place), we got up to the breakfast served on the patio in the riad, I tasted the most amazing pancakes in my life, they look like ordinary pancakes, but have layers of delicious dough – anyway, something to try. And filled with energy, we decided to sop hard and bargain heavily. Note – we didn’t succeed, the sellers have a thing of knowing that you like something and they will use it against you. Well, at least I know for the future that walking away is sometimes the best solution. Aaaand, never ever ever buy the thing in huge leather shops next to the tannery. It is much cheaper on the streets.


Last step: Coloring
First step: Desinfection
Ah, yes, the tannery. To get to the terrace on the top (so you can enjoy a view on the process of turning sheep skins into leather and then coloring it) you have to pass the three or four floors of little leather shops with all their products. Once you get there, the awful stench makes you want to run back to riad and never come out again. But, you stick there, because it is probably the last time you will see something like that. The guide tells you a little story how they first put the skins into a dissolved pigeon poo, which explains the smell. And a soon as the story is finished, you run down, just to see other friendly sellers offering the tea, which of course, you cannot refuse (and it is really hard to, it is delicious), and start showing you things.



From the top of the hill you can get the most beautiful view, at least the managers swore on it. You have to get the taxi, and of course go through all the arguing and price changing (it is very important to have either a taximeter on or decide on a price beforehand). The view on the Medina was worth it. Getting up there just in time for their call to the prayer and filming it, was worth the trouble.




The smell of the market in Fes is quite different from the one in Casablanca, but it’s offer is quite bigger (lovely sandwiches, sweets, spices, leather shoes, all you can think of, even live chickens and a half of a cow being chopped to small pieces).  If you want to escape the sounds and smells of the lively Medina, there is the park nearby, called jnans bil, beautiful still place with lots of security which are protecting the plants. Yes, plants, not people.  You cannot touch the plants.


With the memory of all those smells and colors, we continue the journey to the south, the desert.




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