Once we got
to the main train station, we already got to know quite a few people
from Fes. And all of the people that were occupying the compartment were managers of some-sort, a tannery, bars, the best
restaurant. They were very kind and told us a lot about their lives and also didn't hesitate to ask about our lives. I usually don’t trust people at first,
and they advised us not to trust anyone in Fes. Except for, I guess, all of the
people in the compartment – the managers. But not a specific detail was given,
just – DO NOT TRUST ANYONE. And they asked for our hotel address, and already
made plans for us when to eat lunch, see the shops, etc. Of course, they provided contacts of
all sorts of “cheap” guides.
We
continued suspiciously on. While approaching towards the taxi stand (keeping in
mind not to trust anyone) and asked how much to the Medina of Fes. The first
one said 40 MAD (approximately 4 Euros), and we said ok (dragging a big
suitcase doesn’t give you much arguing space). Luckily, we’ve found our riad in
the busy streets of the Medina . The riad was close to the Blue door which was
excellent for the sake of orientation (a reference point lately used a lot).
Greeted in a customary Moroccan fashion, we drank the over sweeten tea with
mint (which I grew very fond of, it is extra delicious), and were shown our
room. By now, we already knew that one does not simply enter their booked room
in Morocco, you are being shown all the other rooms, and said that the price is
a little bit different (you can never get the exact price beforehand, I think
it changes with the conversation), so we said no, thanks, and proceeded to our
room.
The room
was excellent, and the whole interior of riad was astonishing. Colorful Moroccan style
accompanied with mosaics of tiles and a big spacious rooms. African scents (sweet nutty spices mixture)
made up for the fact there were no windows to the exterior world – Riads are
usually closed to the outside world, but have a middle of the house open and
windows towards inside, so you get a plenty of fresh air, not to worry. And the
isolation of a riad guarantees a good night sleep. And after Casablanca’s crazy
life, we needed it.
Just after settling, it was time for taking a walk through the colorful narrow streets of Fes Medina and seeing what the craftsmen have to offer.
The streets in
Casablanca Medina were narrow, but big enough for a little car to pass through
(or the taxi drivers would squeeze it through not caring about innocent
pedestrians and not even honking. In
Fes, the streets were too narrow for that, and filled with people. The means of
transportating the goods from one part of the market to another were mules and
little ponies. “Belek, belek”, shouting all around. Later I found out in ment
“attention, attention”. There is no right side of the street rule, everybody
had their tempo and it took a couple of days for me to get used to it and not
move for everything. People in Fes like to play a game of pretending not to see
they are about to run into you, and eventually they move out of the way. The
little craftsman shops are amazing, and if you want to buy something, get ready
to bargain hard and ridiculous, it is the normal fashion here.
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| The terrace at the craftsman organisation it the jewish neighbourhood of Fes |
After 12
hours of sleep(riad was an amazing place), we got up to the breakfast served on
the patio in the riad, I tasted the most amazing pancakes in my life, they look
like ordinary pancakes, but have layers of delicious dough – anyway, something
to try. And filled with energy, we decided to sop hard and bargain heavily.
Note – we didn’t succeed, the sellers have a thing of knowing that you like
something and they will use it against you. Well, at least I know for the
future that walking away is sometimes the best solution. Aaaand, never ever
ever buy the thing in huge leather shops next to the tannery. It is much cheaper
on the streets.
 |
| Last step: Coloring |
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| First step: Desinfection |
Ah, yes,
the tannery. To get to the terrace on the top (so you can enjoy a view on the process of turning sheep skins into leather and then coloring it) you have to
pass the three or four floors of little leather shops with all their products.
Once you get there, the awful stench makes you want to run back to riad and
never come out again. But, you stick there, because it is probably the last
time you will see something like that. The guide tells you a little story how
they first put the skins into a dissolved pigeon poo, which explains the smell.
And a soon as the story is finished, you run down, just to see other friendly
sellers offering the tea, which of course, you cannot refuse (and it is really
hard to, it is delicious), and start showing you things.
From the
top of the hill you can get the most beautiful view, at least the managers
swore on it. You have to get the taxi, and of course go through all the arguing
and price changing (it is very important to have either a taximeter on or
decide on a price beforehand). The view on the Medina was worth it. Getting up
there just in time for their call to the prayer and filming it, was worth the
trouble.
The smell
of the market in Fes is quite different from the one in Casablanca, but it’s
offer is quite bigger (lovely sandwiches, sweets, spices, leather shoes, all
you can think of, even live chickens and a half of a cow being chopped to small
pieces). If you want to escape the
sounds and smells of the lively Medina, there is the park nearby, called jnans
bil, beautiful still place with lots of security which are protecting the
plants. Yes, plants, not people. You cannot
touch the plants.
With the
memory of all those smells and colors, we continue the journey to the south, the desert.
Anyway,
three nights in a Kasbah, with the desert just in a back yard, it was 
